...and so to Z

What a difference a warm sleep makes! Up early although no ceremony for  Anzac Day. There is a new memorial...ready for next year.

LEST WE FORGET

To be officially opened on 29th April

This was a lovely old hall at Tallygaroopna

Before we left Katamatite we took pic of where we ended up staying

Imagine this water logged and it was where we were originally going to camp!

Pretty dark and dismal  with an incredibly chilly wind. I have not worn as many layers of clothes, ever! Good road so we had progressed without any significant stops until we reached

Z for Zeerust

Mission accomplished. No idea how far we have travelled, or the average speed or how high we climbed or the min/max temperatures but no doubt Luke will supply those stats. Sufficient to say the idea became a reality, we met some lovely people and certainly have a better appreciation of the geography and social history of Victoria. Now we know our ABC, next time............... who knows! 

Thanks to Heather and Myles for their Shepparton hospitality and car-minding to make the exercise possible - great cycling buddies.

THE END

X, Y and the heavens opened

W was not only for Wangaratta, but Warby Ranges and wind!

Officially there is no place in Victoria, with a postcode, beginning with X. But we made many crossings on our trip so was apt to mark X with...

North again, against the wind to Y for Yarrawonga

55 kms in the wind was a bit tiring; paused for lunch at Y but we knew the hardest part was yet to come- 35 kms s/w to Katamatite.  Wind in our face but was quite interesting scenery.

Just keeping an eye on him, as well as the sky which was rapidly building. It was like sewing fast  to beat the thread running out - we pedalled hoping to beat the inevitable. This photo doesn't do justice to the actual colours. The silos were dark blue and the sky deep purple.

We had phoned ahead to this tiny place, knowing there was a pub, but the guy said they didn't do rooms. He said there was a camp ground (basic) so we were prepared for that  - or so we thought! 5 kms out the heavens opened.The rain stung like needles and visibility was nil. Nothing to do but keep going. We arrived in  Katamatite, went to the shop to book in to camp. The lady was terribly apologetic- no cabins, no camp kitchen, not even any shelter. To boot, our tent was packed up wet this morning. The camp ground was awash, and we just stared...where and how would we pitch a tent , still in the rain? I had already started to think of how we might cope, when a guardian angel appeared in the form of the publican (female). "Wait 5mins - I'll arrange something" and off she trots. And she did. Behind the hotel an elderly couple had rooms ( once a motel) - and presto, we had one!The temperature had fallen from 10 to 5 degrees in five mins. We were wet and frozen but ever so grateful. Later we laughed, not sure what we would have actually done in the camp ground, but luckily we'll never know.  Had a lovely warm dinner ( with soup) at the pub, have stuffed the shoes with newspaper and now we will rest up for the last dash to.....

V then W

All day we watched  the sky. V for Violet Town held some little surprises.

Not ony are the streets named after flowers, but the signs all feature drawings of the flowers. The main street had similar signs indicating the hairdresser, the newsagent etc. Very quaint.

We voted this to be the best "town" sign of the trip.....courtesy of Leunig!

A pleasant run into Benalla. Have resolved to visit the art Gallery on our way home as the weather was closing in. We took a back route through Winton, climbed into Glenrowan where the first raindrops fell. Coat on and pedalled like hell as we saw the storm coming down the valley. Paused to take this photo of W for Wangaratta. At least it was still in sunshine!

Tent up before any moisture fell.

Now we are beginning to sound like the English - fixated on the weather - but it does make a difference to how far we can go and where we can stay.  Three letters to go. We  anticipate being back in Shepparton on Wednesday afternoon late, if the W, S/W winds don't hamper us too much. Bet you can't guess "X"!

U is for.....

We left Thomastown in a heavy fog, but it was great to see the sun break through as we headed north to Whittlesea. Great roads, obviously much used by cyclists. We were now in the area much effected by the famous bush fires so it was good  to see signs of recovery, mainly in the form of a great new fire station. We had eggs here  in preparation for potential hills!These didn't really eventuate, just a few climbs  in a gradual ascent to get to U for Upper Plenty.

This water tank is at the local school, maybe part of the recovery process.

It was to be quite a distance to our next "letter". We stayed the next night at Tallarook . No room at the hotel but he let us camp in the backyard - charged us $30 each! A curious experience - one gets the feeling he hasn't really done his market research on cyclists and the new Goulburn River High Country rail trail. We  rode part of this, as far as Trawool. It has not been officially opened yet and it seems they are already battling the elements. Although there has been some great new bridges installed, the trail itself is suffering in the recent rains. However, we enjoyed the bush scents and the fast flowing river.

At Trawool, we headed back towards Seymour, then took back roads through Mangalore ( explosives factory), Avenal (the Kelly Trail starts here)-



Spurred on knowing that Heather & Myles were meeting us in Eurora, we pedalled furiously through Locksley and Longwood to get to Eurora, have a shower, put tent up and be at the movies at 4pm. We all went to see The Artist which was quite fitting as it was screened in the original theatre - just like going back in time. At the climax of the movie, just as the main character was really losing it, accompanied by fantastic mood music, the hail came belting down. And in time with the passing story  crisis, the hail stopped when the movie regained composure! All we could think about was our little blue tent in the severe hail storm. Would everything be wet? Being the good little campers we are, no, all was safe. This photo was taken as we came out of the theatre.

We were grateful that H &  M were there to transport us from the camp ground. And of course we all had a convivial dinner afterwards. Awoke to a relatively dry day, but Luke had a puncture, so made it a later start than planned.

Along the way to R,S & T

We have resolved to visit the Queenscliff and Geelong areas again -there is plenty to see.The Bellarine Rail Trail experience was enhanced by both the perfect weather and the revegatative plantings that lined the route - it certainly tops those we have ridden so far.

The camp ground in Geelong was not central so we rode to the harbour for breakfast on Thursday morning. A great path around the bay , dotted  with carved wooden figures. A selection to rival the cows of Shepparton.
For  Ben, the bandsmen of Geelong:

And for Keith - a piper in the mist...

We headed north from Geelong towards Bacchus Marsh, past the Barwon Prison ( in the news this week) around the base of the YouYangs and into the country proper. Only got caught in one storm but we seemed to be in a high traffic area for quarry trucks. About 12kms  from BM we turned right and  eventually found our target, R for Rockbank Once on the highway it now sits  beside the freeway. The caravan park's claim to fame is that its the closest park to the Bass Strait Ferry! They have 140 permanent residents - 7 visitor cabins, so that tells it all. As it was wet we took hard top accommodation and had a relaxing night.

This is the only commerce in Rockbank! This morning  we continued north through some hills and wine country; what huge mansions they build around S for Sunbury. Of note, which we  enjoyed, was the fabulous shared paths into and out of the town.

Quite a large shopping centre. From here the roads were a bit dicey- lots of trucks and no edge. The worst roads are those that have a white line right on the edge, then a dirt rut edged by loose gravel. Some significant hills which we walked. But the time we got to Roxburgh  Park I was almost despairing but hallelujah! the cycle lanes started. What a difference infrastructure makes to the experience! We zoomed along - feeling ever so safe  in quite heavy traffic. Not one horn toot - it was real pleasure. This lasted right into T for Thomastown. What a surprise here - a fabulous railway station.

Simple but effective. And now onto U. No rain today although it was forecast. Fingers crossed.

NOT Marjorie Jackson

Whoops, mistake. Must have been all those distractions. Of course, the singer to whom I referred was Marjorie LAWRENCE, not Marjorie Jackson. Great day today around Queenscliff and then the BEST railtrail -the Bellarine. In Geelong tonight.

Three in One Day

Heading east we stopped for cofffe at a tiny place, Moriac, to find it was the home town of Marjorie Jackson, the singer. Undulating hills peaking at Mt Duneed then a flat run to Barwon Heads.

O is for Ocean Grove. A scenic ride across the bridge and around the coast to

P for Point Lonsdale

We probablyshould have stayed here but decided to push on to

Q for Queenscliff.

Now the holiday season is over, it seems the place dies! But we will explore tomorrow then take the  35km rail trail to Geelong. Haven't dedcided past that. At the park tonight is a group of 30 retirees - 4WDrivers. They asked us to talk about what we are doing  they were especially interested in he outback stuff we have ridden. But for me, after the bike, a 4wd wouldn't do it!

N is for....

Napoloens!This place is about 16kms south of Ballarat. Intirguing name - anecdotally named after a miner who wore his hat like Napoleon. Having made this deviaition we took the Mt Mercer Rd across and down to Shelford. There was a bit of wind but it was a delightful route, no trucks and sunshine. We lunched at a CFA shed on the side of the road and continued on a back road into Winchelsea. 97 kms. At first we were told there nowhere to camp but eventually we found a very small van park - we were the only tourists- but the facilties were good and we ate at the pub. Hard to know what drives the town. Surrounding area is rich looking but the town has not much in the way of services. The pub has been restored ( and very well done), land is cheap and  there are new houses. Maybe there are growth expectations as its not really that far from Geelong . Early night  - we were done in !

Saturday Markets, Sunday Rest

What a shame we were riding. Skipton had a wonderful market last Sat morning -we delayed our start to roam around and look. I am pretty good at carrying the food without damage but I knew a sponge cake was not within my capabilities.

The rail trail was  more challenging than we expected. A head wind and gradual continuous climb combined with the gravel surface that offered no rollling assistance made it hard work. But we found a good park, showered ,and my brother Tony came to collect us for dinner. It was good to catch up especially with Mila whom we had not met before. Had a sound sleep.

Had a (comparative) sleep in on Sunday, then walked into town for Mass at the cathedral - the total opposite experience of the previous week - great organ, full choir and a stimulating sermon even!Afterwards we went to see an exhibition by three female artists based on the refugee experience. It was quite moving. We planned to visit a friend and stupidly thought we could walk that far - ended up calling a taxi. Spent the afternoon with Phil Gray - a very pleasant and inspiring visit. Phil has Parkinson's and one can but admire his courage - we had many good times together at the ANU in times past. We took Phil for a walk as it is difficult for him to get out and the weather was just superb. It was sad to say goodbye.

But now I had a project to  send him photos of the changing face of Canberra.  A relaxed dinner in the park and we were in bed early knowing it was long day to come.

Some days are pure magic

Perfect weather, perfect route. Leaving Ararat we took Tatyoon Rd and Mt William Rd to Skipton. All day we had the full length view of the Grampians on our right and for a time, Mt Ararat on our right. Sheer pleasure in the undulations with a tail wind. The highlight of the trip for me.

So why Skipton? We decided we will do the  Skipton to Ballarat rail trail.

Skipton is still recovering from a flood on Fathers' Day 2010 which was followed by an even more severe one in Jan 2011. The only pub was destroyed and camping is not allowed. The only accommodation is three cabins at the roadhouse, but these are good. Unfortunately, this has implications for the rail trail business. Our hosts have been very "accommodating" as we had the afternoon to catch up on washing etc. Tomorrow we will take a leisurely trip along a historic rail route to Ballarat. PLanning to visit Tony adn a good friend, Phil Gray. Will stay the weekend.

The small water way that caused all the trouble.So where will "N' take us?

M is for......

M is for Murtoa.

We headed for here after reading about the "big stick shed". Google this for full information-quite fascinating. Unfortunately,  it is only open on special occasions, like 5th May, so we had to be satisfied with appreciating the enormity of the building.

Just when we though a town could not get more desperate than Minyip, we see Murtoa. Even their two pubs are closed but they hope soon to reopen the Railway Hotel. But the locals were ever optimistic. The caravan park was basic but again overlooked a lake.

We patronised the IGA Express and introduced ourselves to the park manager, a lovely 80+ lady who lives across the road. She was intrigued with what we are doing so is writing a piece for the local paper. She gave us tea and buns but I think we got to know more about here than she did about us. She and her husband ( God rest his soul) were original soldier settlers. She parents operated a boarding house for 30 years in Alexandra, and her grandmother ran the hotel at Merton. She looks after 11 legatee women in the town, is a member of Probis, volunteers at the local museum, writes a bird column for the paper and is teaching herself the violin. She also plays the piano and the flute.  The town has a great viable school to which tow buses come daily form Horsham. She believes it is a shame that none of the teachers actually live in Murtoa. 

 All in all a comfortable night and out little stove did the job. Next stop will be "O" but quite a bit in between. Took a beautiful back road into Stawell - little traffic,no wind and beautiful flora.

We made good time so had lunch and took top the Great Western Hwy for the last 30kms to Ararat. How different was that! The road had a great wide edge but it was incredibly busy with trucks and their incessant noise. But that's all part of the experience.

Along the way  we crossed the 37th Parallel as well as passing through Great Western of champagne fame. Ararat is a sizeable regional centre - maybe this is why the smaller towns are gradually closing up. Everyone is mobile for shopping. It has a varied history including an institution for the insane. Its public buildings are quite majestic.

This was the Town Hall but now a Performing Arts Centre and Gallery.

Set off on a perfect day continuing south....more about that next time.

Quite a distance from L to M

In search of M. West of Boort we rode past this vast olive plantation, seems to be marketed as Cobram Estate, in part. Sign says 997,000 trees were planted - imagine the pruning.

Charlton was the next town- fairly big letters on the map are deceiving!  But it did have a bakery and a tourist visitors' area. The large grain repository seemed to be the centre of "activity"; many houses for sale and empty shops. There were lots of kms to ponder what keeps these towns going - maybe their sense of humour.



Property mail box featuring kettle, tea-cup & saucer, tea spoon

91 kms and we reached... heres' one for you Don.


The first white settler here was a Mr Donald from Stirling in Scotland, so it was no wonder we also found, for you Keith....

Donald was once a thriving rail centre for hauling, grain,livestock and water; all functions now taken over by road trains. To their credit the community has preserved its rail history in an attractive static display of rail engines and carriages. Camp ground was pretty sparse but near a very pretty lake,so our tent was all that was really necessary. We looked up an outback riding friend, Gill, and had a pub dinner with her. This was after the newsagent had a go at fixing my gears - he was partially successfully giving me the middle and little cogs- so I remain the "queen of spin". The iconic attraction in Donald is the Bullock's Head.

The poem below says it all but you will need to enlarge it to read. In 2011 the bullock indeed got to drink  when the main street was flooded.

We had breakfast on town. A young chap had only opened his business 8 weeks prior so one felt every bit of support was appreciated - besides he cycles every day.

As we headed SW although straight and flat , it was attractive countryside. Out next town was Minyip ( but not our "M"!). The road in was through an  extraordinary avenue  of sugar gums.This beauty belied the state of the town. It's only claim to fame is that it was used as the location of Cooper's Crossing, in the Flying Doctors (1988). Sadly now there are abut 20 empty shops, just a butcher and IGA Express operating, that is besides the two pubs. Not sure how they are trading but their exteriors are still attractive. Again the country sense of humour- if you can't have one, at least you can look like you do....

A great painting!

A few kms on and we came to the most western point of our route- it was flat & dry. Amazingly, it was around here that the soldier settlement blocks were granted, specifically to irrigate for dairy production. This is in he middle of sheep & wheat country so one can but wonder what the powers that be were thinking.

Turned south, sensing "M' was near.